One of the highlights of this Ghanaian adventure has been making new friends. Some pics from our day trips (and sadly, farewell parties).
It’s been ages since I last updated my blog. Here are just some of the places, faces and festivals we managed to experience so far!
The part I love most about working at OAfrica is getting out into the field and meeting the families on our support. The highlight is definitely the annual road trip, which takes us outside of Accra itself and into some of the more remote areas. I especially enjoy visiting the villages in the rural areas.
On these trips, I’m joined by a photographer and a social worker. Speaking with the children, asking them questions and getting to know them, helps me write the reports for our international donors about what’s happening on the ground and is used as content for our social media posts. I’m so grateful for this experience, and I know that one day, when I’m an old granny, I’ll look back on these memories and smile….
Below are just some of the children and families I’ve met during this years road trip. Special thanks to photographer Shine Wilson for capturing these moments!
Kakum National Park, located in the Central Region, is a protected evergreen rainforest. It’s also where you can experience the thrill of the Canopy Walkway – over 7 bridges suspended 30m above the forest floor. From this walkway, you can literally see out over the treetops and take in the spectacular views of the rainforest around you. I saw some of the tallest trees I’ve ever seen – some reach up to 65m high!
Kakum is situated 33kms from Cape Coast, and boasts over seven species of primates including the Diana monkey. Rich in birdlife and featuring over 500 species of butterfly, it’s even home to the African forest elephant! It is believed that since 2012, the area of Kakum had the densest population of forest elephants in all of Ghana. Although you probably won’t see them through the thick forest canopy below you, you can sometimes hear them scrounging around for fallen fruit.
On arrival, you’ll be appointed a guide, who will lead you across the bridges and give you information along the way. It’s definitely one of the nicer tourist attractions in Ghana, especially if you like being in nature or if you’re bit of a thrill seeker! You get to see a forest like you’ve never seen one before and you literally feel like you’re Tarzan hanging out in the tree-tops!
You can even stay over in one of the tree houses if you want to see the forest come alive at night for some nocturnal animal viewing.
Combine the Kakum park with Elmina or Cape Coast over a long weekend to get the most out of this beautiful region. And be sure to hold onto your camera and sunglasses as you traverse the bridges!!
Another beautiful place to visit in Ghana, and one of my personal favourites, is the Shai Hills reserve, located in the Greater Accra region, about an hours drive from Accra.
The vegetation consists mainly of open grasslands and plains with rocky outcrops. It is considered the closest natural wildlife park to Accra, although I wouldn’t quite put it in the same league as the safari parks of South Africa, Tanzania or Kenya. Here, you’ll only see a few (very tame) baboons, some ostrich (imported from South Africa, obviously!), some species of small antelope and a wide variety of bird life. But the landscape alone is worth the visit because sometimes you just want to get out of the city and be reminded that you actually live in Africa! The fact that it’s not far away is a huge plus so it makes for a perfect weekend break out of Accra.
You can either drive your vehicle around the park or go on foot, if you’re up for a bit of hiking. You can also hire a guide for the day, who will take you around the park and give you some interesting information about the history of the park and the people who once lived in the vicinty. He will also point out the fauna and flora and take you into the Shai tribes’ ancestral caves, where you’ll encounter a colony of bats!
The best part of the visit was the summit up one of the rocky outcrops. An easy climb which took less than twenty minutes, resulted in the most amazing views out over the plains. It was a truly beautiful Lion King moment!!
Elmina is a town on the South coast of Ghana in what is known as the Central Region. It was the first European settlement in all of West Africa and is therefore steeped in history -albeit a shameful one.
The Elmina Castle is the most well-known landmark in the little town of Elmina, which prior to European settlement, was called Anomansah (meaning: the perpetual drink).
The Portuguese were the first of many Europeans to exploit the natural resources of the region – from gold to ivory, and later, human beings. Elmina is most widely known for its horrific past as a major hub for the Trans Atlantic Slave Trade, which took place from the 15th to 19th Century. Millions of Africans were captured and transported to the New World as slaves. The Elmina Castle stands today to remind us of this awful period in history, as both a tourist attraction and a living museum – but more importantly, as a reminder to humanity that such an atrocity should never be allowed to take place again.
The castle itself is an imposing fortress, with a painful past. Built by the Portuguese in 1482, it was the first trading post constructed on the Gulf of Guinea coast. This makes it the oldest European building in existence below the Sahara. The Portuguese realized the enormous potential for trade which existed at the time, thanks to the discovery of gold.
It was initially built as a trading settlement and used as a warehouse to store their newly acquired wealth (commodities such as gold and ivory), which were being traded extensively at the time. It would however come to serve a more vile purpose. By the 17th Century, the Portuguese realized there was a commodity more valuable and lucrative than gold or ivory: that of human property. The castle was used as a depot for captured Africans, before they would be sold into slavery.
The Dutch seized the fort from the Portuguese in 1637 and took over the entire “Gold Coast” as it was then reffered to. The Slave Trade continued under the Dutch until 1814 and finally, in 1872, the fort, including the Gold Coast, became the possession of the British Empire.
A guided tour takes you into the various rooms of the upper section of the castle including the Governors’ bedroom, complete with a panoramic view of the Atlantic, a far cry from the squalor and desperation of the dungeons in the courtyard below. The dungeons served as holding cells, and separate rooms existed for men and for women. The conditions were squalid, with very poor ventilation and little respite from the heat. Captors were chained up and forced to endure cramped and sordid conditions until such time as they would be marched to a small room and shipped away to the New World.
Ironically, there was even a church on site, a very clever guise as Christianity was often used as a convenient loop hole to justify the exploitation and subsequent colonization that took place throughout the African continent.
You can walk along the exterior terraces of the castle, and look out towards the ocean and the fishermen below, boys playing football on the beach and women going about their daily lives in the market place.
Then there is the “Door of No Return”, a small opening through which the captured men and women would exit the castle on to small boats waiting to take them to the slave ships which would carry them over the ocean to the Americas. This room was by far the most impactful for me, even more so than the dungeons – which were by no means not moving – but for some reason, this little room felt heavy with such sadness – something really difficult to explain. Just thinking that these souls probably knew that this was the point of no return, and the beginning of yet another journey of suffering, is what really struck me. The saying “if these walls could speak” could not be more apt. If they could indeed speak, what kind of suffering and hardship would they speak of? One cannot even imagine what these people went through, and we were only given a mere glimpse into the unimaginable suffering that took place here through the explanations, narratives and descriptions given by our tour guide. But reality is always far harsher.
Elmina Castle is recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site and is definitely worth a visit if you’re planning a trip to the Central Region. We stayed at the Elmina Bay Resort for two nights and then Coconut Grove for one night – both places are really nice and right on the beach. The drive to Elmina is very pleasant, especially now that some rain has fallen and everything is green and lush. The drive from Cape Coast to Elmina is especially beautiful as the scenery consists of coastal views and palm trees!
A visit to Elmina town itself is also recommended. We took a guided walking tour which included the town surrounds, the Dutch Cemetry, the fishing port, the Bridge House and various other places of interest such as the local shrines. The buildings are remiscient of both Dutch and British architecture and it was really interesting to walk the streets and see the people going about their every-day lives.
We didn’t get to visit the Cape Coast Castle on this trip, the British equivalent of Elmina Castle, but I’m hoping to do this trip next.
It’s interesting to note that numerous slave castles and forts dot the West African coastline, including Senegal, Gambia and Sierre Leone. The majority can be found here in Ghana, although most have fallen into ruin.
Three months ago, we touched down in a hot and humid Accra. The night we arrived, we were greeted by a huge African thunderstorm. It was almost as if Mother Nature was welcoming us back onto African soil.
It’s been a whirlwind few weeks since then – looking at potential apartments/houses, figuring out where to buy what, getting acquainted with the various areas and neighbourhoods of Accra and meeting new people. So setting up a new blog to document our Ghanaian adventure had to take a backseat. But as things slowly start to fall into place, and now that I finally feel like we’re starting to settle in, I hope to get back to regular blogging.
It’s hard to explain to those who have never upped and moved countries exactly what a big deal it is. I am always amazed that people ask me things like “So, have you found a job yet/have you found a house already”. I honestly don’t think they get the enormity of the situation when it comes to an international relocation. You literally land in a country you’ve never visited before and have to figure out everything from scratch – such as where to buy groceries, which cellular network to get connected to, how the local currency works, how much things cost etc. And this is just the tip of the iceberg. Let’s not forget about the administrative issues associated with moving to a foreign country. But luckily, with this being our second expatriation, I’ve found this time around I’ve been able to draw on the learnings from our Swiss move. We have also been fortunate enough to have a fanstastic network of people to lean on from the get-go and the expat community here is really supportive.
One thing I did differently this time around, is I jumped straight into the various social activities/groups on offer and accepted every invitation that came my way. After all, the only way you will meet people and find your ‘tribe’ is if you put yourself out there. I have already clicked with a few amazing people (something that took me a bit longer in Switzerland) and I have a good feeling about the connections I’ve made so far, in this relatively short space of time.
Of course, there are days I miss Switzerland (funnily enough, I don’t miss South Africa, although I miss my family), but I find that there is something beautiful, positive and uplifting to discover each day here in Ghana. I see things that make me smile, I encounter people who get me thinking about life and I am continually reminded to be thankful and grateful for my blessings. It’s almost as if it was time to leave behind the postcard-perfect world of Switzerland and re-connect with a more authentic version of reality.
I look forward to our new adventure, to learning more about Ghana and of course, myself. And sharing some of my experiences, stories and photos with you!